Cuff.



F.v M. Pfzsswvlcw.-

cuff,

APPLICATION ,FILED APR. 5| ISIS.

419mg. Y Pmndsapt. 25,1%7

2 's HEETsfs-HEET 1.

IHN

II u.

F. M` PRESTWICH.

cuff.

APPLICATION FILED APVLG. 19H5.

' 2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Patented sept. 25,191?,

entran FRANK M. PRESTWICH, Ol NEWT "ZGRK, l', Y.

CUFF.

Leraars..

Application filed April 6, '1916.

of the cuff adhere together, they lack the attractive appearancel whichthey should have if they are to be widely used. I have discovered thatan unstarched cuff can be made equally attractive if the interlining is.properly arranged, and this arrangement mainly resides in making theinterlining in suchl a way that it will be less conspicuous when thecuff is folded. To obtain this result it is frequently advantageous todiminish the thickness of said interlining at the fold' of the cuffwhile giving it its full thickness elsewhere or to make the interliningheavier on the free flap of the cud.

Other features and advantages will hereinafter appear.

lin the accompanying drawings- Figurel is a perspective view of one ofmy cus as worn withthe eXtra face turned in. Fig. 2 is a side View ofthe cuff partly I broken away.

Fig. 3 is a view of a modification, but otherwise like Fig. 2. 1

Fig. 4 is a face View, partly broken away, of the cuff shown in Figs. 5and 6.

Fig. 5 is a section of a cuff embodying all the advantages of thealternative forms,-- this view being largely diagrammatic and expandedfor clearness.

.Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5, but shows the ou folded. v.

My cud' is shown as stitched to a sleeve l and it comprises two faceseach having a complete covering 2, 3, of the outside material,-saidmaterial being usually that of which the body of the shirt is made. Tomake the cuff, the outside thicknesses out to the right shapes, areiirstv stitched together, back sides out, by a seam 4, and then turnedinside out. One or more interlinings are then placed inside the bag soformed, the interlinings closely conforming to the edges of the bagandplaced between the inwardly peceation of Letters Patent.

Patented iiept. ,25, imi i?.

Serial No. 89,276.

projecting ends 6, 7 of the material. The interlinings are then stitchedinto place by running a seam' or stitching 8 near the edge of the bag,so that this seam will bind together the ends (Sand .7 and hold theinterlinings l2, 13 and l5 between them, one long side however beingleft open. This long side is then stitched to the sleeve by an extensionof the seam or stitching` 8 which passes through the sleeve.y and at thesame time sews up the open cuil". ln order to get the proper effect theend of the sleeve is doubled over, and the seam S passes through thewhole cuff and the sleeve. The seam 8 comes close to the end of thedoubled over part of the sleeve, thus completely concealing it. Byhaving the seam 8 set in from the edge of the cuff as is usual, theculi" edge l1 will seem to be the edge of a turned over cuff thus makingthe appearance of the free cuff identical whichever way it is folded andworn.

ln order to obtain the right kind of a fold where the cuff is folded.over, l modify the interlinings at this point. For this purpose 'I havefound it advantageous to either eliminate one interlining at this pointor to make the interlinings comparatively light. The utility of thisarises partly from the fact that if the cuff is folded one way theoutside face should be longer than the inside, while when the saine cuilis folded the opposite way that same face should be shorter. Byprovidii'iga weak place in the interlining, l' make it possible for theoutside face to draw itself taut across the inside face so as to avoidcrinkling it. This avoiding of crinkling is apparently due to the factthat the relative weakness of the cuff at the fold makes all attemptedcrinkling take place in such a confined place that there is no crinklingat all properly so called, because ,the inside face of the cuff ispinched between the slightly distant thicker portions of theinterlining. ln other words'one face becomes sort of a hinge for theother, of which the butts are formed by vthe eXtra thicknesses of theadjacent interlining. rlhese functions are possible because theunstarchedf culi' permits the faces to slide over the interlining andeach other, and this would not be possible in a starched cuff, becausethe starch ceinents the feces to each other and to the interlining. r

ln Fig. 2 ll have shown this interlining iic I meet, thus forming' aequivalent 2a 21 makes the cuit appear a 35 This may be obtained byperforatin 4o cuii by a tension interlining 45 way over each. The outerfaces completely 65 this iiap heavier.

as made from two entirely separate pieces of cloth 12 and 13, each ofwhich, as seen at Figs. 2 and 3, covers almost half of the cuff; thesepieces, however, fail to quite the inside covering 2 doubles up slightlyand forms a pintle of a hinge. Each piece of interlining 12 and 13 isadvantageously formed of a single piece of thin muslin or material, ofwhich the edges 'are (caught 1n the outside seam 8. These inter'- liningpieces should be made of very light material, and should approximate inexibility to the covering material of the cu's 15 so that they will beinconspicuous.- Unless this is carefully provided for, the cuff willlose its natural soft edect. The interlining is advantageo'hsly kept inplace by being v stitched to one face of the cud by a seam 2c 21v orelse the interlining is kept in place by lighter material stitched by aseam 17 forming a holding means 18 extending from one interlining to theother. Where the interlin'ing is stitched to the other face the seamdiderent style onv that face from what it does on the other thus.enablingthe wearer to give the impressionv ofwearin two differentshirts when wearing the cu the two ways. Thus the interliu .0 is not apadding as it would be in Va starc ed cuii", but is a spring backing.

For some forms of material it isadvantageous to but to weaken it at thefold of the cuf. t e interlining along the edge of the cu I have shownin Fig. 3 how this maybe done with advantage by having interlinings 12`and 13 but not coming u'p' to the fold of the considerable fraction ofan inch, oreven by a greater amount. The interlinin s 12 and 13 arestitched by a very inconsplcuous seam 17 to an intermediate or ex- 18which extends part conceal vthese inside seams and thus glve the cud avery attractive appearance.

i In order to get the best effect, I iind 1t advantageous to have onepart of the interl lining heavler than the rest, and to obtain thisadvantage this heavier lining must be on the Hap of the cuff which isfree of the sleeve. This heavier section is formed by an extra orreinforcing piece 22 stitched by 55 seams 23 to the interlining bf whichit forms a part. y

The Whole combination is shown in Fig. 4:, of which Figs. 5 and 6 arediagrammatic sectional views. In these iigures the' per- A'60 for-atedinterlining 15 extends completely from one end of the cuff to the otherand is perforated at 19. Adjacent along the rectangular perforations onthe outer flap of the cui?, is the reinforcing piece 22 making Thisreini'krcingir piece little pocket in which make the interliningcontinuous,.

need not cover the Wholelap sinceits'principal function is to givestiffness to the free flap adjacent the fold.. The two half interlinings-12 and 13 are heid together by the intermediate weaker interlining, andmayin addition be stitched by the stitching 21 to the adjacent face ofthe cuff, thus combining the advantages of construction shown in Figs. 2and 3, While the interlining 15 andreinforcing 22 give the advantagesmen-- tioned above for them. It will beA noted that' 'in Fig. 5) whichoverlaps the interlinings 12 and 13 on each side of the fold, reinforcesthe interlinings and thus stiens the culi".

at the fold without making it bulky' elsewhere. It'should be rememberedthat Figs. 5 and 6 are merely diagrarn'matifc, and that in the cuff asmade the interlinings and Yfaces touch each other and lare Vstitchedto`gether at .the ends and to the sleeve as def' scribed above to get theflap effect wherethe' sleeve joins the'cui. The cuff includes twobuttonholes along each edge of the usual form.

While I have described c rtain featurfs of' r my invention in greatdetai I have done. so

only to enable those skilled inthe art to appreciate some, advantages-of my invention, but what I lclaim as my invention is 1. A reversiblecuff, foldable in either. direction' upon itself, so as to providea flapfor attachment to a sleeve and a free flap.

adapted to lie against either Iface ofthe attachment Hap; said cuffcomprising two outer faces stitched together along` ,their marginaledges, a separateinterlining'piece for each flap of the cuff, said'interlining pieces substantially comingup tolthe fold line of the cuitbut slightly'l'spaced'apart at loc such line, and meanswithin'the'cuiffkor holding saidinterlining piecesin place at. the foldand permitting saido'uter cuff faces tohsllide freely relative to'eachother atthe 2. A reversible culi, folda'ble in either direction uponitself, so as toA provide a hap for attachment to a sleeve and a freeflap adapted toy lie against eitheryface of 'the lattachment flap; saidcuff comprising two outer faces stitched together along their marginaledges., an interlning piece for each flap of the cuff, said interliningpieces substantially coming up to the Afold line of the cuii but lightlyspaced apart atsuch line, and an interlining. joining thefirst-mentioned interlinings for holding the Same in place at thefldand'permitting `said leo and stitched outer cuff faces to slide freelyrelative to each other at the fold, and which is per orated at the foldof the cui".

3. A reversible cuff, -foldable in either direction upon itself, so asto provide a flap for attachment to a sleeve and a free flap adapted tolie against either face' of the attachment Hap; said cuff comprising twoouter faces stitched together along their marginal edges, a separatemterlining piece for each fiapj'of the cui, said interlining piecessubstantially coming up to the fold line of the auf but slightly spacedapart at such line, and an additional interlining `piece bridging thespace. between the'rst-mentionedinterlining pieces and overlapping tothe latter to hold them in place. -1 f V4:. The combination with asleeve, of a foldable cuii' having outer faces foldable on themselves, areinforcement lying on the free iiap portion of said cuff andterminating along the folding edge, an interlining overlapping saidreinforcement and stitching for holding said reinforcement andinterlining in place.

5. A reversible cui, foldalole in either direction upon itself, so as toprovide a iiap for attachment to a sleeve and a free ap adapted to lieagainst either face of the attachment ap; said cuff comprising two outerfaces stitched together along their marginal edges, an interlining.piece -for each flap of the cu', said interlining pieces comingsubstantially up to the fold line of the cui but slightly spaced apartat said line, a weaker interlining joining the firstnamed interliningsfor holding the same in place at the fold and permitting said outer cufffaces to slide freely'relative to each other at the fold, and anadditional interlining covering substantially the entire face' of thecu", and which is perforated at the fold of the cu.

Signed at 39 E 4 st. in the county ofl New York and State of' New Yorkthis 3d day of AprilA. D. 1916.

FRANK M. Pnns'rwieri. Witnesses:

' KATHARINE A. MCNAMARA,

DAvm Fanno. r

